Eating out with toddlers

Spain is child friendly in as much as toddlers are welcome everywhere. But don't expect child menus or high chairs at every watering hole. Chairs and tables will be moved to accommodate your buggy/s although it's worth mentioning when you book that you have a buggy so that they reserve a good table for you. You can bring your own booster seat or clamp-on table seat and no-one will worry about scratching the furniture.

Some restaurants will have a loo large enough to change your child on the floor, very few will have proper baby changing facilities. They'll warm up your baby bottle and any food that you've brought with you but their menu is their menu. You can opt for a media-racion of main-courses and appetisers but other than that - it is what it is. Ideal foods for toddlers include pinchitos (small kebabs), tortillas(potato omelette), albondigas (meatballs). Most of the bars and cafes will serve simple food suitable for children. As with adults , one of the problems can be getting enough vegetables into the diet. If your toddler is happy with salads you're fine. But getting quantities of cooked green veg seems to be a problem everywhere.

We travel with one of the fussiest eaters on earth. You may have the second fussiest in your party. So this next bit of advice may be familiar:

- Take a stand-by sandwich/fruit/snack with you, the local fare may not pass muster as far as your child is concerned.

What follows is our list of favourites - great food, smoke-free environment, relatively easy access and most accommodating.

First, in town.

La Posada - Avenida de Los Remedios. A large dining room attached to a large bar. The dining room is no smoking - the bar isn't. The food is typical high-end Spanish, local produce.

El Jardin Del Califa. Great Morroccan influenced food in this garden restaurant attached to the Hotel Califa which is something of a landmark in the centre of the old town, set at one corner of Plaza de Espana. A word of warning, if you are with buggy you need to take a more circuitous route to the garden restaurant. Ask at reception when booking (always worth booking in advance for this one). And if your Spanish isn't up to much there's the benefit that English is spoken here. Starters are the size of main courses so share one if you still want space for pudding (this is often the case in Spanish restaurants).

Pizzeria La Posta in Calle Juan Bueno. A great stand-by if you're arriving late. Open until midnight. That sounds a bit mealy-mouthed - it's a great pizza place at any time. It's small but seldom full so you can usually count on getting a table with enough room to accommodate all your trappings.

La Brassa, outside in fine weather. As the name suggests, predominantly grilled food.

Meson Pepe Julian - Calle Juan Relinque - opposite the market square. A couple of steps to negotiate to get into the place which at first appears to be mostly a little bar. But in the back is a dining area that serves good local food.

Down at the beach:

Playa Los Bateles at Conil is probably the best beach to head for. It's a Blue Flag beach, plenty of restaurants on the promenade (some with Kids play areas) and Chiringuitos on the beach itself. There are also permanent sunshades to hire along with sun beds. A boon when you are already laden down with buckets and spades and all the other child related paraphernalia.

Further along at Playa Fontanilla (west of Conil) is the eponymous La Fontanilla, one of our favourite fish restaurants. No more or less child-friendly than anywhere else, but we try to time our visit with sleep time - the kids laid out flat in their buggies while we tuck in to some of the best local fish and seafood you'll find anywhere. Worth booking on a Sunday as this is where all the locals head for en-famille.

Further afield there's plenty to look forward to. Tarifa, Jerez and Cadiz are all within striking distance for day trips. El Faro, in Cadiz, is a regular destination for us each time we come out. Arguably this is the best fish restaurant in the area. Again, we try to time our visits with the kids afternoon kip. It's an up market restaurant that goes out of its way to make families feel at home. They are one of the few places that do have high chairs and the loos have proper baby changing facilities. This is also the best place for desserts in Spain we've come across (not a great accolade, but they're especially good here).

La Vera Cruz

We tried this restaurant about four years ago and thought we ought to give it another go. Billed as Cucina Francesa it's one of the few restaurants in Vejer with pretensions to 'fine' dining. I started with Cream of Pesto with Scallops. On the menu it was the scallops that had caught my eye and failed to catch my eye when the waitress brought a plate of pesto soup. Having sent it away with, "no, not for me, I ordered the scallops", the head waiter brought it back tipping the bowl slightly to reveal the dry and thinly sliced scallop (singular) that had been hiding under the leading edge of the bowl. Alison had decided to do without a starter on the promise that she could have one of my scallops. I don't know which of us was more disappointed. The soup was delightfully refreshing all the same.

Alison's main course was Iberian pork in a Roquefort sauce. I plumped for Duck leg with a grape and moscatel sauce 'in the french style' which was heavy on the fat and light on the meat - the magret with citrus fruit sauce would have been a better choice in hindsight. Both were served on blisteringly hot plates with small islands of perfectly cooked vegetables.

Our pudding's were a runny but delicious creme flambée with Cointreau and a dark and white chocolate mousse with créme anglaise.

Along with a lovely Rioja Reserva the total came to around 75 euros.

The waiting staff were pleasant and spoke English.

It's not somewhere I'd rush back to but we probably won't leave it as long next time.

Bar el Central

Housed in what used to be a branch of Banco Santander Central Hispano is this Cerveceria/Cafeteria/Heladeria/Wine Bar/Restaurant/something-for-everyone-at-any-time-of-day watering hole. It's on the Corner of Juan Bueno and one of the prettiest little cut-throughs in the centre of Vejer near La Plazuela. On first encounter it makes a much better restaurant location than a Bank and it's opening is a welcome relief having been a building site for quite some time. We stopped in for a glass of wine and a plate of Pulpo Gallega on the way home from the beach - as good as any we have tasted in Spain.

Antonio's Cafe Mediterraneo

Our most recent visit to Cielo coincided with the opening of this new restaurant a few minutes walk from our front door. The offer of a free bottle of house wine from their regular house list of six wines was enough to tempt us through the door. It's no smoking on the first floor which was just as well as that was as far as we felt the urge to climb with a pushchair.

It was worth the effort. The excellent Free Rioja aside the food was good value. We started with a cooling Gazpacho and Calamari alla Romana - simple enough but so often batter coated squid rings turn out to be too heavy on the batter and too rubbery on the squid. These were light and tender. This was followed by a 'Torro' Burger and Lamb shank with aromatic potatoes. This latter dish could have been quite heavy going on a hot evening but was made lighter by being served warm rather than hot and the potatoes cool. Finally we shared a fresh orange sorbet. The total came to around 40 Euros.

Pleasant and efficient staff, most speaking excellent English, will surely help this newcomer establish itself quickly.

Check out their web site at www.antonioscafemediterraneo.com

Antonio's c/. Juan Bueno, 23, Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz 11150
Tel: (0034) 956 447 006
Reservations via email: reservas@antonioscafemediterraneo.com

Restaurante La Juderia - Vejer

A good place to go for fish. Look out for the fish in 'salsa de Azafran' (saffron sauce) - something of a signature dish for the restaurant. Although spread out over several floors the place to head for on a hot summer's night is the small outdoor terrace at the top of the restaurant. The view across to the new town is a great back drop for anything you choose from the menu. Best to book in advance if you want the terrace.

Callejon de la Monjas, Tel: 956 44 76 57 / 629 760 802

Restaurante La Posada - Vejer

Another favourite, La Posada serves traditional Andalucian fare - tapas in the entrance salon and full meals in the quieter main restaurant off to the side. Both meat and fish dishes are made with high quality ingredients sourced locally. It offers excellent wines and an extensive menu including game birds such as Partridge and Pheasant in season. Portions are generous and the service is attentive but relaxed. It also does a good value Menu del Dia at lunch time.

Avenida Los Remedios Tel: 956 45 01 11

Restaurante Trafalgar - Vejer

You'll find the Trafalgar on the opposite side of Plaza Espana to El Jardin del Califa. It has gained something of a reputation as one of the most avant-garde restaurants in the Costa de la Luz region. Certainly it's one of the pricier options in Vejer but nevertheless a regular destination whenever we get the chance.

The kitchen uses all local ingredients giving traditional recipes a modern twist. Portions are 'nouvelle' in size but beautifully presented. The last time I had leg of lamb at the Trafalgar it was the whole leg - but a small one. The wine list is well put together and the experience never disappoints. The groundfloor is open, bright and modern with views out onto the Plaza but we prefer the upstairs dining room which feels more intimate.

As with the Califa it's advisable to book ahead. Tel: 956 44 76 38

El Jardin del Califa - Vejer

The Hotel del Calipha set in the historic 15th Century Casa del Juzgado dominates one corner of Plaza d'España and has a marvellous Morrocan inspired garden restaurant accessed through either low ceiling spiral stairway from the hotel itself or through a beautiful cobbled side street that features regularly in the annual patio competitions.

You can choose to eat outside under the stars, under partial cover looking into the garden space or indoors in a stone barrel vaulted dining room. Middle eastern Mezzes Lamb Tagines, and Cous Cous are the staple dishes. They have recently added an outdoor grill which serves up some of the largest and juiciest Chuleton steaks you could wish for. There is also a good choice on the menu for vegetarians - not so easy to find in Andalucia. Surprising given the quantity and variety of vegetables grown here.

It's open seven days a week which is useful to know as many restaurants are closed on Sunday. Strongly recommended and worth booking in advance.

Plaza de España Tel: 956 44 77 30