Vejer de la Frontera

La Vera Cruz

2008-06-18T07:12:00.006+01:00

We tried this restaurant about four years ago and thought we ought to give it another go. Billed as Cucina Francesa it's one of the few restaurants in Vejer with pretensions to 'fine' dining. I started with Cream of Pesto with Scallops. On the menu it was the scallops that had caught my eye and failed to catch my eye when the waitress brought a plate of pesto soup. Having sent it away with, "no, not for me, I ordered the scallops", the head waiter brought it back tipping the bowl slightly to reveal the dry and thinly sliced scallop (singular) that had been hiding under the leading edge of the bowl. Alison had decided to do without a starter on the promise that she could have one of my scallops. I don't know which of us was more disappointed. The soup was delightfully refreshing all the same.

Alison's main course was Iberian pork in a Roquefort sauce. I plumped for Duck leg with a grape and moscatel sauce 'in the french style' which was heavy on the fat and light on the meat - the magret with citrus fruit sauce would have been a better choice in hindsight. Both were served on blisteringly hot plates with small islands of perfectly cooked vegetables.

Our pudding's were a runny but delicious creme flambée with Cointreau and a dark and white chocolate mousse with créme anglaise.

Along with a lovely Rioja Reserva the total came to around 75 euros.

The waiting staff were pleasant and spoke English.

It's not somewhere I'd rush back to but we probably won't leave it as long next time.

Bar el Central

2008-06-15T18:45:00.004+01:00

Housed in what used to be a branch of Banco Santander Central Hispano is this Cerveceria/Cafeteria/Heladeria/Wine Bar/Restaurant/something-for-everyone-at-any-time-of-day watering hole. It's on the Corner of Juan Bueno and one of the prettiest little cut-throughs in the centre of Vejer near La Plazuela. On first encounter it makes a much better restaurant location than a Bank and it's opening is a welcome relief having been a building site for quite some time. We stopped in for a glass of wine and a plate of Pulpo Gallega on the way home from the beach - as good as any we have tasted in Spain.

Antonio's Cafe Mediterraneo

2008-06-15T17:31:00.004+01:00

Our most recent visit to Cielo coincided with the opening of this new restaurant a few minutes walk from our front door. The offer of a free bottle of house wine from their regular house list of six wines was enough to tempt us through the door. It's no smoking on the first floor which was just as well as that was as far as we felt the urge to climb with a pushchair.

It was worth the effort. The excellent Free Rioja aside the food was good value. We started with a cooling Gazpacho and Calamari alla Romana - simple enough but so often batter coated squid rings turn out to be too heavy on the batter and too rubbery on the squid. These were light and tender. This was followed by a 'Torro' Burger and Lamb shank with aromatic potatoes. This latter dish could have been quite heavy going on a hot evening but was made lighter by being served warm rather than hot and the potatoes cool. Finally we shared a fresh orange sorbet. The total came to around 40 Euros.

Pleasant and efficient staff, most speaking excellent English, will surely help this newcomer establish itself quickly.

Check out their web site at www.antonioscafemediterraneo.com

Antonio's c/. Juan Bueno, 23, Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz 11150
Tel: (0034) 956 447 006
Reservations via email: reservas@antonioscafemediterraneo.com

Restaurante La Juderia - Vejer

2007-07-08T11:29:00.000+01:00

A good place to go for fish. Look out for the fish in 'salsa de Azafran' (saffron sauce) - something of a signature dish for the restaurant. Although spread out over several floors the place to head for on a hot summer's night is the small outdoor terrace at the top of the restaurant. The view across to the new town is a great back drop for anything you choose from the menu. Best to book in advance if you want the terrace.

Callejon de la Monjas, Tel: 956 44 76 57 / 629 760 802

Restaurante La Posada - Vejer

2007-07-08T10:51:00.000+01:00

Another favourite, La Posada serves traditional Andalucian fare - tapas in the entrance salon and full meals in the quieter main restaurant off to the side. Both meat and fish dishes are made with high quality ingredients sourced locally. It offers excellent wines and an extensive menu including game birds such as Partridge and Pheasant in season. Portions are generous and the service is attentive but relaxed. It also does a good value Menu del Dia at lunch time.

Avenida Los Remedios Tel: 956 45 01 11

Restaurante Trafalgar - Vejer

2007-07-07T15:17:00.000+01:00

You'll find the Trafalgar on the opposite side of Plaza Espana to El Jardin del Califa. It has gained something of a reputation as one of the most avant-garde restaurants in the Costa de la Luz region. Certainly it's one of the pricier options in Vejer but nevertheless a regular destination whenever we get the chance.

The kitchen uses all local ingredients giving traditional recipes a modern twist. Portions are 'nouvelle' in size but beautifully presented. The last time I had leg of lamb at the Trafalgar it was the whole leg - but a small one. The wine list is well put together and the experience never disappoints. The groundfloor is open, bright and modern with views out onto the Plaza but we prefer the upstairs dining room which feels more intimate.

As with the Califa it's advisable to book ahead. Tel: 956 44 76 38

Market day in Conil

2007-07-04T19:36:00.000+01:00

Conil is our closest town with a weekly street market. Every Friday you'll find a large section of the car park down on the beach given over to market stalls selling clothes and linens, household goods, designer sun glasses, olives, spices and other foods.

If you miss Conil on the Friday, other towns in the Costa de la Luz region have their market days as follows:

Monday - Cadiz, Jerez
Tuesday - Chiclana, Chutane, El Puerto de Santa Maria
Wednesday - Rota
Thursday - San Fernando
Sunday - Seville (Alameda de Hercules) and jerez from 11am until 2pm (Plaza del Mercado & Calle Muro you'll find the Rastro or flea Market)

Festivals in Vejer

2007-07-04T19:23:00.000+01:00

Carnival - Feb/March
Holy Week Semana Santa - end of March
El Toro Embolao - Easter Sunday
Spring Festival Feria de Primavera/Abril - end of April
Romería al Santuario de Ntra.Señora de la Oliva - May 7
Candelá de San Juan - June 23
Velada de la Oliva - August 10

The Easter related dates vary from year to year.

Local weather in Vejer and Costa de la Luz

2007-06-30T15:29:00.000+01:00

The weather in Costa de la Luz is not as severe as in some other Mediterranean destinations. Although the summers are hot, there is a constant Atlantic breeze that cools things down. The winters are also very mild.

Here's a link to the BBC's 5 day weather forecast for Cadiz which is Vejer's provincial capital. It's where we go for an accurate view whenever we plan to visit Cielo.

How to get there

2007-06-30T15:15:00.000+01:00

The closest airports to Vejer de la Frontera are; Jerez (Ryanair) about 50 minutes drive, Gibraltar (BA, Monarch) about 90 minutes drive, Seville (BA, Iberia) about 90 mins drive and Malaga (served by almost everyone) about 2 hours drive along the motorway.

Click on the map above, or the link below, for a printable pdf showing the major routes into Vejer at a larger scale.

Patio competition

2007-06-30T15:06:00.000+01:00

One of the nicest thing you can do on a sunny afternoon is stroll around the cobbled streets spotting all the beautifully cultivated patios. In May each year the town holds a patio competition.

El Jardin del Califa - Vejer

2007-06-30T15:00:00.000+01:00

The Hotel del Calipha set in the historic 15th Century Casa del Juzgado dominates one corner of Plaza d'España and has a marvellous Morrocan inspired garden restaurant accessed through either low ceiling spiral stairway from the hotel itself or through a beautiful cobbled side street that features regularly in the annual patio competitions.

You can choose to eat outside under the stars, under partial cover looking into the garden space or indoors in a stone barrel vaulted dining room. Middle eastern Mezzes Lamb Tagines, and Cous Cous are the staple dishes. They have recently added an outdoor grill which serves up some of the largest and juiciest Chuleton steaks you could wish for. There is also a good choice on the menu for vegetarians - not so easy to find in Andalucia. Surprising given the quantity and variety of vegetables grown here.

It's open seven days a week which is useful to know as many restaurants are closed on Sunday. Strongly recommended and worth booking in advance.

Plaza de España Tel: 956 44 77 30

Vejer de la Frontera

2007-06-28T15:49:00.001+01:00

The myriad cobbled streets wind around the old town, each turn offering a new and exciting view. Vejer has a number of historical monuments; a castle, ancient walls which surround the old town, a minaret of the old mosque, churches, convents and windmills. It is a perfect place to stroll around and discover courtyards filled with flowers and little plazas (squares) where locals and tourists alike take their walks and soak up the atmosphere. There's often a fiesta in the town, the best being the Feria de Abril in the week after Easter.